Markets of Oaxaca
THE CENTRAL VALLEYS: TOWNS, HANDICRAFTS, MARKETS, FESTIVALS
ALBARRADAS, SAN LORENZO (18 kms. or 11 miles SE of Mitla)
Handicrafts: woven palm products: mats, brooms, bags, baskets
Festivals:
San Lorenzo, August 9-13. Religious processions, Mixtec ball game, horse races, fireworks
AMATLAN, SAN LUIS (13 kms. or 8 miles NE of Miahuatl†n)
Handicrafts: Woven palm baskets
ANIMAS TRUJANO (10 kms. or 6 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175)
A town made famous by the book by Rogelio Barriga Rivas (and movie) "Animas Trujano"; on Good Friday the church and churchyard are decorated with flowers and leaves of the maguey plant.
ARRAZOLA, SAN ANTONIO (5 kms. or 3 miles of junction of Hwy. to Zaachila, SW of Oaxaca)
Handicrafts: Painted wood sculptures; one of most important production centers on Oaxaca with more than 100 families devoted to the craft.
ATZOMPA, SANTA MARIA (8 kms. or 5 miles NW of Oaxaca)
Handicrafts: One of most famous pottery villages in Oaxaca; most of families are potters. They produce green glazed, multi-color glazed and natural beige decorative and utilitarian ware, available at the Artisans' Market and the homes of the artisans.
Market day: Tuesday; Pottery Market open every day
AYOQUEZCO de ALDAMA (26 kms. or 16 miles S of Zimatl†n, Hwy. 131)
Attractive market under huge Indian laurel trees; colonial church
Market day: Tuesday
CAJONOS, SAN FRANCISCO (Sierra de Ju†rez)(43 kms. or 27 miles N of Teotitlán del Valle by gravel road, past Benito Ju†rez, 2 kms. from San Pedro Cajonos)
Handicrafts: Ixtle (maguey fiber) nets, hammocks and bags
CAJONOS, SAN PEDRO (Sierra de Ju†rez)(43 kms. or 27 miles N of Teotitl†n del Valle by gravel road past Benito Ju†rez, 2 kms. from San Francisco Cajonos)
Handicrafts: painted wood sculptures
CALPULALPAM de MENDEZ (Sierra de Ju†rez) (5 kms. or 3 miles SE of Ixtl†n de Juárez on Hwy. 175 to Tuxtepec) Magnificent 18th century church with Moorish style ceiling, full of baroque altarpieces and sculpture
Festivals:
San Mateo, September 21. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
CHILATECA, SAN JUAN (27 kms. or 17 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175)
Handicrafts: Embroidered "wedding style" dresses and blouses
COATLAN, SAN VICENTE (take HWY. 175 S of Ejutla 13 kms. or 6 miles; justbefore La Ca§ada turn W, go 17 kms. or 7-3/4 miles)
Handicrafts: "Chenteco" cross-stitch decorated blouses, available in Oaxaca
COYOTEPEC, SAN BARTOLO (15 kms. or 9 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Ocotl†n)
Handicrafts: Black pottery; one of Oaxaca's most important pottery villages Available in the Artisans' Market in the plaza and homes of the potters.
Festivals: San Bartolo, August 24-27. Dance of the Gardeners, Feather dance, carnival, processions. Impressive processions during Holy Week.
COYOTEPEC, SANTA MARIA (just north of San Bartolo Coyotepec)
Handicrafts: Wicker rings ("rodetes") to hold round-bottomed pottery
CUILAPAM de GUERRERO (13 kms. or 8 miles SW of Oaxaca, Hwy. to Zaachila)
Important and unique 16th century basilica church and convent
Festivals: Santiago Apostol, July 25. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
DAINZU (17 kms. or 10 miles east of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Mitla)
Archaeological site
DE LAS JUNTAS, SAN AGUSTIN (4 kms. or 2 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Puerto Angel)
Handicrafts: Wood skeleton figures and nativity scenes
DEL VALLE, SAN MIGUEL (14 kms. or 9 miles NE of Tlacolula de Matamoros, Hwy. 190)
Handicrafts: Wool rugs
Festivals: San Miguel Arc†ngel, September 19. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
DEL VALLE, SANTA ANA (34 kms. or 21 miles east of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Mitla; 2 miles north of highway)
Community museum; 17th century church
Handicrafts: Wool rugs
Festivals: Santa Ana, July 24-26 and August 9-14. Christ of Esquipulas (Dulce Senor de Esquipulas), January 13-17. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
DEL VALLE, TEOTITLAN (26 kms. or 16 miles east of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Tehuantepec, 4 miles north of highway)
Community museum; 16th, 17th church and convent, churchyard posa chapels
Handicrafts: Oaxaca's most important production center of wool rugs and serapes; available at stalls in the plaza and homes of the weavers.
Festivals: San Juan Bautista de Salle, April 3-7. Precious Blood of Christ, 1st. Wednesday in July
Religious processions, fireworks, sports events, Plume dancer, Guelaguetza, feasts
DIAZ ORDAZ, VILLA de (10 kms. or 6 miles north of Tlacolula and Hwy. 190)
Handicrafts: wool rugs
17th century church
Festivals: Santa María Goretti, August 4-18. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
EJUTLA de CRESPO (65 kms. or 40 miles S of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Puerto Angel) A large town on the way to the Coast with a market place, banks, hotels, restaurants. It has a 17th century church with an 18th century Churrigueresque altarpiece dedicated to the Virgin of the Nativity.
Handicrafts: cutlery and swords that bend round (the Aragon Family are the most famous makers); leather goods, candies.
Market day: Thursday
Festivals: Virgin of the Nativity, Sept. 8 (4 days). Processions, religious ceremonies, fireworks, traditional and popular dances, rodeos, mock battles. Independence Day celebrations, Sept. 15-16
ETLA, MAGDALENA
The quarry for location of the "andesita," the green stone used for streets and buildings in Oaxaca since colonial times.
ETLA, SAN AGUSTIN (18 kms. or 11 miles NW of Oaxaca; 2 miles N of Hwy. 190) Public golf course; swimming pools Villa de Ad†n (952-1-20-46); Balneario Vista Hermosa (952-1-20-49); Deportivo los Tabachines (952-1-21-45)
Festivals: San Agust°n, August 27 and 28. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
ETLA, SAN SEBASTIAN (15 kms. or 9 miles NW of Oaxaca, 1 km. north Hwy. 190)
Public swimming pool: Las Brisas (952-1-20-11)
ETLA, VILLA de (19 kms. or 12 miles NW of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Mexico City)
Important 17th century church and convent; re-built colonial aqueduct
Market day: Wednesday (important regional market)
Festivals: Se§or de las Pe§as, 2 weeks before Good Friday. Processions, fireworks, dances, carnival. Guelaguetza or "Lunes del Cerro," last 2 Mondays of July (ceremonies and dances in honor of the Corn Goddess)
GUELATAO de JUAREZ (Sierra de Ju†rez) (65 kms. or 40 miles north of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Tuxtepec)
Birthplae of President Benito Juarez
Festivals: Birthday of Benito Ju†rez, March 21. San Pablo Apostol, January 25
GUELAVIA, SAN JUAN (1 km. before turn to Teotitl†n, go south 5 kms. or 3 miles)
Handicrafts: Basketry, bird cages, fireworks constructions
Festivals: San Juan Bautista, July 24. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
HIERVE EL AGUA (18 kms. or 11 miles SE of Mitla; 2 miles from highway)
Ancient petrified waterfalls and pre-Colombian irrigated agricultural zone
HUAYAPAN, SAN ANDRES (13 kms. or 8 miles north of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Tuxtepec)
Major colonial church with beautiful, restored baroque altarpieces
HUITZO, SAN PABLO (31 kms. or 19 miles NW of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Mexico City)
Community museum; archaeological site with one of most important tombs in Mexico (artifacts stored at Cuilapam)
Colonial century church and convent, large churchyard
Festivals: San Pablo Apostol, January 24-25. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks, pilgrimages
HUIXTEPEC, SAN PABLO (about 35 kms. or 22 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. 131 to Sola de Vega)
Community museum; 17th century church; 18th Century Hacienda San Nicol†s Quialana to the north (in ruins but beautiful)
Festivals: La Venida del Esp°ritu Santo, May or June. San Pablo Apostol, January 25. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks, amateur bull riding
IXTLAHUACA, SAN PEDRO (btwn. Atzompa and Monte Alb†n)
Handicrafts: masks and painted wood sculptures
IXTLAN de JUAREZ (Sierra de Ju†rez) (67 kms. or 40 miles N of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Tuxtepec)
17th century church with a nave full of magnificent, restored baroque altarpieces, handsome stone facade and side entrance
Festivals: Santo Tom†s Apostol, December 21
JALIEZA, SANTO TOMAS (30 kms. or 18 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Ocotl†n)
Handicrafts: traditional woven cotton belts, bags, table runners. Available at stalls in the plaza on Fridays or in weavers' homes
LAMBITYECO (25 kms. or 15 miles east of Oaxaca) Archaeological site
MARTIR, SAN PEDRO (6 kms. or 4 miles S of Ocotl†n, highway to Ejutla, take turn to R, go 2 kms. or 1 miles more)
Handicrafts: Crocheted and embroidered "wedding style" dresses and blouses
MATATLAN, SANTIAGO (45 kms. or 28 miles SE of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Tehuantepec, 3 miles from highway)
A commercial mezcal production center which buys mezcal from small local producers, some of which can be visited
Festivals: Santiago Apostol, July 28. Religious processions, fireworks, rodeo
MIAHUATLAN de PORFIRIO DIAZ (105 kms. or 65 miles S of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175) Colonial church dedicated to San AndrÇs. An attractive town in the mountains half-way between the city of Oaxaca and the Coast, it has a church, large market place, hospital, hotels, banks, and restaurants.
Handicrafts: leather riding chaps, jackets, bags, belts, portfolios, "huaraches" in the "cruzado" and "correa" styles, reed baskets, mats and hats of woven palm; wool felt hats, blankets, rugs and cloth; wooden toys
and painted wood sculptures.
Market day: Monday (large regional market with coffee, mezcal, goat barbeque,
candies, "segesa" with pork, similar to yellow mole sauce).
Festivals: Anniversary of Battle of the Walnut Hill, Oct. 1-3. Civic events incl. crowing a queen, parade with alegorical floats, serenades, horse parade, popular dancing. Day of the Dead, Nov. 1-2
MITLA, SAN PABLO, VILLA de (45 kms. or 28 miles east of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Tehuantepec, 2 miles from highway)
Frissell Museum (archaeological collection); 16th century church, posa chapels in churchyard. One of most important ancient cities in Oaxaca 759-1521 a.d.
Handicrafts: One of Oaxaca's most important weaving centers producing crocheted blouses, rebozos, "7 regions" dolls, filigree jewelry, table linens and bedspreads.
Festivals: San Pablo Apostol, January 25
MOGOTE, SAN JOSE (17 kms. or 10 miles NW of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Mexico City) Interesting archaeological site under excavation (pyramids); community museum in restored ex-Hacienda "El Cacique"
Handicrafts: woven palm products: baskets, mats, fans
MONTE ALBAN (9 kms. or 5 miles NW of Oaxaca). Archaeological site and Museum
The major archaeological ruin of Oaxaca, on a man-mode plateau overlooking the Valleys of Etla, Tlacolula and Ocotl†n, a splendid view and excursion.
OCOTLAN de MORELOS (36 kms. or 22 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Puerto Angel). The parish church is being beautifully restored by local (and internationally famous) painter Rodolfo Morales, who is also doing more churches in the area.
Handicrafts: tinware, cutlery, red pottery with white decoration, basketry
Market day: Friday (an interesting regional market with rugs, baskets, "huaraches," baskets, metates, sombreros, and textiles)
Festivals: El Se§or de la Sacrist°a, 3rd Sunday of May. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
PAPALUTLA, SANTA CRUZ (31 kms. or 19 miles SE of City of Oaxaca, south of Hwy. 190 to Tehuantepec; 2 miles from Hwy.)
Handicrafts: split bamboo "carrizo" bird cages, basketry, toys, fireworks
Festivals: Virgen del Rosario, 3rd Sunday of October. Religious processions, sports events, dances, fireworks
QUIALANA, SAN BARTOLOME (6 kms. or 4 miles S of Tlacolula; go past market, at crossroads 4 km. S of Tlacolula turn R, go 5 km. or 3 miles more)
Handicrafts: wood utensils: spoons, chocolate beaters, butter spreaders
Festivals: San BartolomÇ, August 27. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
SAN ANTONINO CASTILLO VELASCO (35 kms. or 22 miles south of City of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Puerto Angel)
Handicrafts: the most well-known town for embroidered "wedding style" dresses and blouses, corn husk figures and straw flower decorations
SAN FELIPE DEL AGUA (just north of Colonia Reforma and City of Oaxaca) 18th century church; an old and lovely residential zone just north of Oaxaca
TAVEHUA, SANTA MARIA (Sierra de Ju†rez)(45 kms. or 28 miles from Ixtl†n de Ju†rez, take road to Calpulalpam at entrance to Ixtl†n)
Handicrafts: simple, single-fired, red-orange pottery with great charm: vessels, "patojo" cooking jars shaped like boots, figures; nativity, wedding and other scenes, animals, little churches
TAVICHE, SAN PEDRO (2 kms. or 1 miles S of Ocotl†n take road to L, then is 24 kms. or 15 miles to Taviche)
Handicrafts: painted and un-painted wood sculptures
TEITIPAC, MAGDALENA (11 kms. or 7 miles straight S of San Juan Guelav°a; take road S to Guelav°a 1 km. before turn to Teotitl†n del Valle)
Handicrafts: split bamboo baskets ("carrizo")
TEITIPAC, SAN JUAN (27 kms. or 17 miles SE of City of Oaxaca; 10 kms. or 6 miles south of Hwy. 190 on road to R past El Tule) 16th century church and convent; large churchyard with cross and baroque altarpieces
Handicrafts: split bamboo ("carrizo") basketry, cages, fireworks
Festivals: San Juan Bautista, June 24. Virgin of Juquila, December 8. San Sebasti†n, January 20 . Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
TEITIPAC, SAN SEBASTIAN (24 kms. or 15 miles SE of Oaxaca; 7 kms. or 4 miles south of Hwy. 190, road to R past El Tule)
Handicrafts: stone grinding implements: "metates," "molcajetes," millstones
Festivals:
Virgin of Juquila, December 8
San Sebasti†n, January 20
Religious processions, carnival games, fireworks.
TEJALAPAN, LA UNION (about 30 kms. or 19 miles NW of City of Oaxaca)
Handicrafts: painted wood sculptures (3rd most important village)
TEOTITLAN DEL VALLE, see Del Valle, Teotitl†n
TEQUISISTLAN, MAGDALENA (49 kms. or 30 miles NW of Tehuantepec)
Site of major industrial production of onyx objects and building materials
TILCAJETE, SAN MARTIN (26 kms. or 16 miles S of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 to Puerto Angel, north of Ocotl†n) 17th century church with folk style decoration on towers and facade
Handicrafts: one of most important villages making painted wood animals, masks, furniture, boxes, and picture frames
TLACOCHAHUAYA, SAN JERONIMO (23 kms. 14 miles E of Oaxaca; 2 miles S of Hwy. 190)
Colonial Church with magnificently decorated interior in a folk art style unique in Mexico; restored colonial organ and small 16th century cloister
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TLACOLULA DE MATAMOROS (27 kms. or 17 miles east of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Mitla) 17th century church with important stucco decoration also in side chapel; silver altar table and railing, forged iron pulpit; very picturesque cemetery with five huge ahuehuete trees
Market day: Sunday (colorful, important regional market, many handicrafts)
Festivals:
Christ of Tlacolula, 2nd Sunday of October. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
TLAPAZOLA, SAN MARCOS (9 kms. or 6 miles S of Tlacolula, street past market)
Simple utilitarian red pottery: tortilla grills, jars, bowls, dishes
TULE, SANTA MARIA DEL (12 kms. or 7 miles east of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Mitla) 17th century church with famous, 2,000 year-old Tule (ahuehuete) tree in churchyard; artisans' market, mezcal store.
Festivals:
Virgin of the Asunci¢n, August 15
Fiesta of the Tule Tree, 2nd Monday of October
Virgin of Candlemas (la Candelaria), February 2
Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
XAAGA (2 miles SE of Mitla) A town 30 years old dedicated to making "jergas," or cleaning rags, on colonial looms; archaeological site with tomb in patio of abandoned hacienda.
XOCHIMILCO DISTRICT (NE of City of Oaxaca)
Handicrafts: many tinsmiths and households producing hand-loomed textiles operate in this area
XOXOCOTLAN, SANTA CRUZ (3 kms. or 2 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. to Zaachila) Late 16th century church, 17th century altarpieces
Festivals:
Holy Week re-enactment of Passion and Crucifixion with live actors
Day of the Dead, Nov. 2 (tourists encouraged to visit cemetery at night)
YAGUL (35 kms. or 21 miles east of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190 to Mitla) Archaeological site
YAXE, SAN NICOLAS (26 kms. or 16 miles east of Ocotl†n, Hwy. 175 to Puerto Angel)
Handicrafts: split bamboo ("carrizo") baskets
ZAACHILA (18 kms. or 11 miles SW of City of Oaxaca) The last Zapotec civilization capital (at the time of the Spanish Conquest) Archaeological site with important tombs (behind colonial church)
Market day: Thursday (important regional market)
Festivals:
Guelaguetza or "Lunes del Cerro," last 2 Mondays of July with ceremonies and dances in honor of the Corn Goddess
La Natividad, September 8. Religious processions, traditional dances, ball games, fireworks
ZEGACHE, SANTA ANA (NW of Ocotl†n and San Antonino, five minutes from Ocotl†n) Colonial Church with nine baroque altarpieces bein restored by Rodolfo Morales.
Handicrafts: baskets ("tenates")
ZIMATLAN DE ALVAREZ (38 kms. or 23 miles south of Oaxaca, Hwy. 131) 17th century church, archaeological site (pyramids with ruined church on top near railroad at entrance to town); Porfirio D°az period market place.
Handicrafts: for many years the town was the center of production in Mexico of the "itak" technique of tie-dying threads for manufacturing the classic shawl ("rebozo") of dark silk or rayon; the tiny snowflakes produced the all-over pattern. Commercial imitations now substitute from other parts of the country.
Market day: Wednesday (important market)
Festivals:
Dulce Nombre de Jesus, January 15. Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks, Mixtec ball game, horse races, cock fights.
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