Oaxaca's Pacific Coast:
TOWNS, FESTIVALS, MARKETS, ARTISANS
AMUSGOS, SAN PEDRO (52 kms. or 32 miles N of Pinotepa Nacional, Hwy. 125)
Handicrafts: Weaving
The huipiles from this village are the most popular in Oaxaca and what has brought fame to its weavers far beyond Mexico. A visitor will see women weaving in front of their homes, and Elida Merino Hernández is a good one who brings her work to sell in Oaxaca (M.A.R.O. at 5 de Mayo 204). She lives near the school on 5 de Febrero Street. She weaves rebozos and huipiles with a variety of patterns and motifs, including roses, animals, people, and scorpions. The rebozos in natural (unbleached) cotton have embroidery and openwork across the length.
A shop on the main street, TRAJES REGIONALES ELIA (tel: 955-300-45) owned by Elia and Edin Guzmán, has many good quality huipiles and books for sale.
Festivals (among the most popular in the region)
San Pedro, June 29-30: Religious processions, traditional dances of Moors and Christians, bulls, jaguars, and mules; fireworks.
Virgen del Rosario, 1st Sunday of October: Dances, processions; annual "huipil" fair, with towns participating include Cacahuatepec, Pinotepa Nacional, Putla, San Pedro Amusgos, & Ometepec Guerrero. Ladies parade in their special huipiles from each town and choose a queen; there are also regional games and a rodeo.
CACAHUATEPEC, SAN JUAN (41 kms. or 25 miles N of Pinotepa Nacional, Hwy. 125)
One of the most important Amusgos towns.
Market day: Sunday (large market place)
Festivals:
Easter Week
Day of the Dead, November 2
COLORADO, SAN JUAN (6 kms. or 4 miles N of Pinotepa de Don Luis; 34 kms. or 20 miles N of Pinotepa Nacional)
Handicrafts: Textiles (huipiles, linens in native brown and white cotton)
The textiles are among the finest made on the coast, and most of the women weave. One of their specialities is white-on-white embroidery in cotton and silk; Beatríz Russek, the designer from Cuernavaca, has her fabrics made here. Two cooperatives group women weavers and market their work. Contact Adelia Flores Guzmán "Las San Juaneras" (954-3-33-79); or Adelina Quiróz García, "Las Autenticas Artesanas San Juanensas" (954-3-33-79).
Festivals:
Carnival: A big celebration before Lent that is colorful and raucous with traditional dances, bands of music, open-air market. San Andrés, Nov. 29: processions, religious ceremonies, traditional dances with jaguar, turtle, cowboy figures, open-air market.
HUATULCO, BAHIAS DE (47 kms. or 29 miles NE of Pochutla; 5 kms. or 3 miles south of Hwy. 200)
Oaxaca's major international resort development consisting of 7 beautiful, undeveloped bays and 2 with resort hotels: Santa Cruz and Tangolunda, also a park and shopping area called La Crucecita.
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Markets and shopping: Two market places, one in La Crucecita and the other near the Marina in Santa Cruz, sell a large variety of shell objects, carved gourds from Pinotepa de Don Luis, "bule" gourd water carriers, hammocks and woven bags, palm hats, black and red coral, silver, seed, bamboo, and clay jewelry; leather goods, wood and coconut shell masks, onyx chest sets, ashtrays and figurines, wood carvings, baskets, rugs, and native textiles (shawls, huipiles, and table linens). The silver jewelry is mainly from Taxco, but in shops there is some Oaxaca filigree.
The shops at La Crucecita carry beach clothes, sports equipment, jewelry, black pottery and other ceramics from various parts of Mexico, ironwood sculptures of birds, fish and animals from Sonora; coastal textiles from the Amusgos towns and native villages in the Central Valleys, painted wood animals, shell belts from Africa, glassware, featherwork, hammocks, and bags.
The hotel shops in Tangolunda also carry boutique clothing, paintings, prints and sculpture, Cuban cigars, and crafts from various parts of Mexico.
Festivals:
Barrio of Santa Cruz
Day of the Cross ("Día de la Santa Cruz"), May 3
HUATULCO, SANTA MARIA (38 kms. or 24 miles NE of Pochutla; 10 kms. or 6 miles north of Hwy. 200)
Small town on a pretty river, was a historic settlement of the Spaniards, center has been rejuvenated; visit the Valdiosera Museum of popular arts
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HUAXPALTEPEC, SAN ANDRES (20 kms. or 12.5 miles east of Pinotepa Nacional, Hwy. 125)
Handicrafts: textiles: huipiles and blouses of natural brown and white cotton often striped, decorated with ribbons, geometric design embroidery around the necks and roosters on the front.
Market: major regional market before and during Nazarene festival
Festivals:
Jesus the Nazarene, 4 days previous and through the 2nd Friday of Lent
HUAZOLOTITLAN, SANTA MARIA (23 kms. or 14 miles SE of Pinotepa Nacional, Hwy. 125)
Handicrafts: large mask industry, selling all over Mexico and textiles (huipiles and rebozos). For textiles contact the weavers' cooperative via Ignacia Torres Sánchez, "Comité de Artesanas" (954-3-26-99; 3-27-19) and the group headed by Manuela Martínez López.
Festivals:
Virgin of Asunción, August 15: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
IXTALTEPEC, ASUNCION (46 kms. or 29 miles W of Juchitán)
Handicrafts: pottery (tanguy toys, watercoolers, jars, flower pats) made in Barrio Santa Rita
JAMILTEPEC, SANTIAGO (31 kms. or 19 miles SE of Pinotepa Nacional, Hwy. 125)
Handicrafts: white-on-white embroidered, ribbon-decorated huipiles using cotton and imitation silk thread; they also come in bright colors (see HANDICRAFTS; TEXTILES). The town also produces masks, table linens, belts, native wrapped skirts ("posanhuancos"), and pottery: pouring animal and abstract bird vessels of tan clay with a red slip and gray slip brushed over it.
Market: Thursday best day, open daily
Festivals:
Virgin of Los Remedios, September 11: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks, horse races
Santiago Apostol, July 23-26: Processions, fireworks, traditional dances, cock fights, horse races
During Lent and at New Year's: Traditional dances
JICAYAN, SAN PEDRO (20 kms. or 12 miles S of Pinotepa Nacional)
Handicrafts: textiles (table linens and huipiles) and "bules" (gourd water carriers). To market their work, a number of the women weavers have organized into cooperatives, and purchasing is facilitated by contacting the people in charge. In Jicayán there are four groups to contact via their representatives by phone or by inguiring at the Palacio Municipal: Zenaida Hernández Casilla, "Unión de Mujeres Artesanas" (954-3-28-59; 3-34-70); Irene López López, "Mujeres de San Juanito" (9543-25-36; 3-28-59; Juana Minerva Marcelo Vázquez, "Ita •uu" (9-54-3-25-36); and María Gonzá lez Merino, "Comité de Artesanía Local "Nivi •uu" (954-201-60; 2-01-80.
Festivals:
San Pedro Apostol, June 29: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
JUCHITAN (Isthmus of Tehuantepec) (30 kms. or 18 miles NE of Santo Domingo Tehuantepec, Hwy. 190)
Handicrafts: pottery, native costumes, woven palm fiber hats, baskets, mats
Market day: Sunday
Festivals
San Vicente Ferrer, 1st Saturday of the Last 2 weeks of May Velas (grand social dances held 6 to 8 times a year, when the famous Tehuantepec women wear their gala costumes and gold coin jewelry)
JUQUILA, SANTA CATARINA (111 kms. or 70 miles NW of Puerto Escondido)
Oaxaca's most important contemporary pilgrimage site
Handicrafts: rosaries of wood and seeds
Festivals:
Virgin of Juquila, December 8: Religious processions, fireworks, traditional dances, fair, music, market
LAGOON OF CHACAGUA NATIONAL PARK (Chacagua & Pastoría Lagoons) (64 kms. or 40 miles NW of Puerto Escondido; 3 miles of Hwy. 200)
A magnificent nature preserve full of wildlife (see PUERTO ESCONDIDO directory)
LAGOON OF MANIALTEPEC (16 kms. or 10 miles NW of Puerto Escondido, Hwy. 200)
An unspoiled natural paradise for thousands of birds (see PUERTO ESCONDIDO directory)
MAGDALENA TEQUISISTLAN (46 kms. or 28 miles NW of Tehuantepec, Hwy. 190)
An industrial production center of onyx objects and building materials
MAZUNTE (6 kms. or 4 miles SE of Puerto Angel)
Outstanding string of natural beaches on a rocky coast, perfect for low-key vacations (see PUERTO ANGEL directory)
The Mexican Center for Turtle Studies breeds many species of sea turtle.
MECHOACAN, SANTA CATARINA (Hwy. 200 going NE of Jamiltepec, at km. 210, turn N and go 6 kms. or 4 miles to village)
Handicrafts: rattan furniture from palm tree fibers
NOPALA, SANTOS REYES (57 kms. or 35 miles NW of Puerto Escondido)
The former capital of the Chatino Indian culture, now an unspoiled historic coffee town north of Puerto Escondido.
Festivals:
Day of the Three Kings, January 6: Religious processions, fireworks, music, traditional dance
PINOTEPA DE DON LUIS (27 kms. or 17 miles NE of Pinotepa Nacional)
Handicrafts: Pottery (burnished, red slip jars and bowls with painted white decoration); exceptional textiles woven on belt looms of native brown and white cotton and embroidered with scorpions, birds, animals of the region and wrap skirts ("posanhuancos") dyed purple with ink of sea mollusks. The huipiles are woven by most of the women in the village for their own use and a wide audience, for the garments are among the most sought-after in Oaxaca. Inquire for Teresa López Jiménez, who heads a women's cooperative and markets their products.
Festivals:
Virgin of Asunción, August 15: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
PINOTEPA NACIONAL, SANTIAGO (136 kms. or 84 miles NW of Puerto Escondido, Hwy. 200)
Large town with hotels, hospital, banks, colonial church (refurbished) and old convent; regional architecture.
Handicrafts: Chaquira blouses with glass beaded or cross-stitched pattern yokes by Chatino Indian women from Santiago Yaitepec near Juquila.
Market: Sundays and Wednesdays: a large regional market selling handicrafts from all the major handicraft-producing villages of the coastal region and attended by Amusgo, Mixtec and Chatino Indians as well as the black-mestizo people of the coast.
Festivals:
Holy Week - Passion and Crucifixion: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks, cock fights
PLUMA HIDALGO (41 kms. or 25 miles north of Pochutla; 6 miles east of Hwy. 175 and town of Loxicha)
Folk baroque l9th century church facade. A small picturesque coffee town perched on a mountainside.
POCHUTLA (13 kms. or 8 miles north of Puerto Angel, Hwy. 175)
Medium-sized town with large market, banks, hotels, restaurants, gas (see PUERTO ANGEL directory and map)
Handicrafts: coconut shell sculptures at Santa Cruz Hotel, coral jewelry at City Jail
Festivals:
San Pedro y San Pablo, June 29: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
Anniversary of the Constitution - February 5: Patriotic ceremonies, sports events, rodeos, fireworks
PUERTO ANGEL (58 kms. or 36 miles SW of Bahías de Huatulco)
Small town and low-key beach resort north of Huatulco (see PUERTO ANGEL directory and map)
PUERTO ESCONDIDO (72 kms. or 45 miles NW of Pochutla, Hwy. 200)
Pleasantly natural beach resort with good hotels, great beaches and shopping between Pinotepa Nacional and Puerto Angel (see PUERTO ESCONDIDO directory and map)
Festivals:
Carnival, middle of February: Beauty contests, parade of allegorical floats, dances, masquerades, night time boat parade
Puerto Escondido November Festival, November 22 - December 1: Beauty contest, dances food fair, international surfing & fishing competitions, basketball, soccer, volleyball, Mixtec ball game, tennis and donkey polo.
RIO GRANDE (50 kms. or 31 miles NW of Puerto Escondido and 75 kms. or 47 miles from Pinotepa, Hwy. 200)
A stop for gas, banking, hotel, food, drugstore, hospital, groceries
SALINA CRUZ (Isthmus of Tehuantepec) (16 kms. or 10 miles south of Santo Domingo Tehuantepec, Hwy. 200)
A major commercial Pacific Seaport.
Festivals:
The Holy Cross, May 3-6
Santa Rosa de Lima, August 30
San Francisco de Asís, October 3-5: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks
SAN ISIDRO LLANO GRANDE (about 20 kms. or 12.5 miles NW of Puerto Escondido)
A small village just north of highway 200 with typical native dwellings
SAN JOSE DEL PACIFICO (about 20 kms. or 12.5 miles south of Miahuatlán, Hwy. 175 to Puerto Angel)
A coffee production center with an interesting finca near-by
Handicrafts: wool blankets and serapes
SAN JOSE DEL PROGRESO (60 kms. or 37 miles SE of Pinotepa Nacional, Hwy. 200)
Handicrafts; artisans buy huipiles, embroider and sell them to vendors in Jamiltepec and Pinotepa Nacional
SAN MATEO DEL MAR (Isthmus of Tehuantepec) (40 kms. or 25 miles SE of Tehuantepec; take Hwy. to Salina Cruz for 16 kms. or 10 miles, turn L, go 24 kms. or 15 miles to village)
A poor Huave Indian village where people fish and make exquisite blouses and huipiles, embroidered with small figures in subtle brown, yellow and purple thread.
SOLA DE VEGA, SAN MIGUEL (90 kms. or 56 miles S of Oaxaca Hwy. 131 from Coyotepec; end of paved highway)
Small town on the road to Juquila from Oaxaca
Handicrafts: the center of a palm fiber weaving region; all palm products
TEHUANTEPEC, SANTO DOMINGO (Isthmus of Tehuantepec) (166 kms. or 103 miles SE of Huatulco Hwy. 200; or from Oaxaca is 240 kms. or 149 miles Hwy. 190)
Handicrafts: pottery (Barrio San Blas Atempa), native costumes
Market day: Sunday
Festivals:
Vela Sandunga, last week of May: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks, a grand ball
Barrio de Santa María Reoloteca, August 13-18: Religious events, processions, traditional dances, fireworks
Del Laborío, August 31 to September 11: Religious events, processions, traditional dances, fireworks
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Vela Guiexoba - Last 2 weeks of May: Religious processions, traditional dances, fireworks, a grand ball
TUTUTEPEC, SAN PEDRO (81 kms. or 50 miles NW of Puerto Escondido; take turn to R at Santa Rosa de Lima 9 kms. or 6 miles to town)
Archaeological site; last capital of the Mixtec empire at time of Spanish Conquest. 18th century church and splendid view of the Pacific Coast.
Festivals:
Virgin of the Candlemas (La Candelaria), February 2: Processions, fireworks, cock fights, music, rodeo, basketball tournament
YAITEPEC, SANTIAGO
Small Chatino Indian village area near Juquila; one of few which still retains its traditional dress and customs.
Handicrafts: Produces exceptionally beautiful blouses with cross-stitched yokes of flower, bird and scroll patterns. To purchase, contact Rogelia Velasco of "Grupo Amo," (958-2-06-67)
ZACATEPEC, SANTA MARIA (24 kms. or 11 miles N of San Pedro Amusgos; 76 kms. or 35 miles N of Pinotepa Nacional on Hwy. 125)
Handicrafts: Unique blouses, huipils and men's two-piece outfits embroidered with a continuous stitch forming birds, scorpions, fish, crabs, and lobsters, made on belt loom woven natural cotton or using manta cloth.
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